Sunday, 1 March 2009

Back to school in Guatemala

Hola Amigos!

So I´ve been back to school for a week or so and my confidence in speaking Spanish is improving all of the time. I am staying in a small village called San Andres which is on the edge of Lake Peten Itza.

(View of San Andres from the launch)
The village runs from the lake side and up the hillside. Pretty much everything is arriba, or in English, up the hill. You would be amazed to see some of the roads here, they are so steep they defy gravity! Some I´ve been unable to descend in the wet because I´d end up on my ass.
I am living in the home of an older lady called Cándida which is just across from the school and not far from the lakeside. My room is a concrete shell on the hillside with a door that opens up onto a balcony that overlooks the lake.

(My room)

(Views from my balcony)
Living is pretty basic here and there are few luxuries to be had. We have water from 6am till about 1pm which is pumped from the lake. Food is quite varied and I´ve had everything from pasta to beans and rice to chicken and vegetable fritters. Everything comes with tortillas and habenero chillies are in a jar on the table. Cándida has some chicks which are really cute though look quite strange as they are brightly coloured.

Another student was staying at Cándida´s house when I arrived so I had company and someone to speak some english to, well when were not trying to speak Spanish. Molly has left now so it is just the two of us. This is better for my learning because it means that I have to speak Spanish all of the time. Cándida´s house is very quite and quite modern compared to some of the others. She has an oven and all of the living quarters are covered, although some are still open to the outside. Some of the other students live in houses that are a mix of inside and outside accommodation, some are businesses (one is a butcher) and a lot have solid fuel fires.
I´ve been getting into a Spanish soap opera and really love relaxing in the hammock. Cándida has two of them in the living room.
My classes run from 8am till 12 noon and most afternoons there are activities arranged for us. I´ve been to visit some local caves, attended a talk on the local Mayan culture (all in Spanish of course), visited an animal rescue sanctuary and visited a woman´s co'operative that makes beauty products from natural, local ingredients. I even helped make soap and body lotion which I was able to buy.

(Jackie and I comparing methods of caving)

(A scarlet macaw at ARCAS, the animal rescue centre. This bird is endangered)

(Helping to make soap)

(Helping to make body lotion)

There is internet in the village but it is really slow so when I get the opportunity I visit Flores or Santa Elena. There is a boat that travels to Flores at 7.30 which is by far the best way to travel. The journey takes about 30 minutes and is so peaceful. The bus doesn´t take much longer. A small minibus comes by San Andres about every 20 minutes. You know it is coming because they sound the horn and shout 'Santa Ellaaanna' as they approach.

(The launch we take to Flores)

(Sunset from Flores)

(Cush, the boatman)
I´d say that 85% of the time I am speaking in Spanish. All lessons are conducted in Spanish, most of the people in the village only speak Spanish, as students we try to speak in Spanish most of the time so this really is an intensive experience. I suppose I shouldn´t be surprised by how tired I´ve been because it is mentally exausting.
We have had a bit of everything weather wise but mainly it is hot during the day but comfortable at night. When the rain comes, it really comes!

(Racing the rain back to San Andres, unfortunately we lost)
There is usually a nice breeze but on days like today, it is just damm hot.

There is not a lot to do here so sometimes I take a walk, or go and hang out at Gringo beach with some of the other students. We swim at the beach and have bonfires there at night.

(Bonfire on an abandoned resturant on the edge of Gringo beach)

Today I´ve been researching my next trip. Next weekend I want to go to Tikal and maybe another Mayan site if I get the opportunity. I´ve also been planning my trip to Guatemala city after school finishes and think I´ll go caving in Cobán before going into the mountains to visit Chichitenango which is famous for its market and Lake Atitlan surrounded by volcanos. Then a quick call into Antigua which is also ringed by 3 volcanos before going to Guatemala City and my flight to Costa Rica.

Well that will do for now. I´ll let you know how I get on at Tikal.

Best wishes to everyone, I hope you are all well!!

Hasta luego.
Nikkie

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