Goodbye Guatemala.....Hello Costa Rica!

Hi friends and family,

Another stamp in my passport and I've spent a couple of weeks in Costa Rica!

Before I get onto here, let me update you on my week travelling in Guatemala.

I left San Andres and Spanish School on a Saturday and got a bus down to Lanquin. The bus ride was long, about 7 hours. We stopped off at Coban for lunch and I got sooo excited when I saw the Chinese takeaway. After 3 weeks of pretty bland food, the chicken fried rice I had tasted out of this world! I arrived at Lanquin in late afternoon and checked into this really cool hostel called El Retiro, right on the river with little thatched cabanas for rooms. Lanquin is 10kms away from Semuc Champey, which is in a valley with steep walls, surrounded by tropical humid forest. There is a 300m long limestone bridge, on top of which there are several natural pools of different sizes, filled with crystalline mountain spring water. The pools are 3-14 ft. deep. Underneath the bridge is the Cahabón River. At the end of the bridge, the water from the pools falls rejoining the river, forming a 40ft waterfall. At Semuc Champey we went caving by candlelight, went tubing down the river and then went and visited the pools. First a few of us climbed to the viewpoint which was well worth the sweat as you can see.

(El Retiro)

(The ride to Semuc Champey)

(Semuc Champey)

ter we went and kicked back in the pools before climbing down under the pools at the point where the waterfall is and jumped into the river. The power of the water was amazing and we had to swim really hard to break free of the current.

(Relaxing in the pools)

I really liked Semuc Champey and Lanquin and El Retiro hostel so much that when the manager of the bar at the hostel said he was looking for a girl to work the bar for a month I was extremely tempted. I stayed on another day to see if I could move around my plans to stay but it meant missing out of the Sloth experience so instead I spent a relaxing day sunbathing, tubing on the river and visiting the local caves before leaving the following day. If I get the opportunity I will definately return and have the guys email address to see if a job is waiting for me.

Next on my list was Lake Atitlan but the journey was long so I broke it up with a night in Antigua. Lake Atitlan is surrounded by 3 volcanos so was the perfect setting for a bit of R&R. After the bus I took the river boat and headed over to San Pedro, a village on the lakeside. It certainly lived up to it's hippy reputation and the vibe was chilled during the day and party at night. I relaxed here and visited San Marco, took a horse trek around the lake and enjoyed the tranquility.

(The boat taxi to San Pedro on Lake Atitlan)

Back in Antigua I booked onto a Volcano hike to visit Volcan Pacaya, the most active volcano in Guatemala. I chose the evening trek to get the best view of the lava. The hike took about 1.5 hours and was mainly up through volcanic ash. The last 15 minutes was across sharp jagged rocks and volcanic ash, all the colour of slate. We were able to walk right up to the lava flow which was very slow and rocky. Every now and then there would be shouts of warning when glowing rocks tumbled down the leading edge. It was amazing to get so close, although I was one of the ones who got a warning and moved out of the way of a rolling rock just in time. If you look behind me you can see it falling.

(Volcano Pacaya)

What a way to finish Guatemala! The next day I travelled to the airport and flew into San Jose in Costa Rica. I didn't stay there long, instead getting straight on the bus to Cahuita on the Caribean cost to spend a couple of days before starting at the Sloth Sanctuary.

(The kittens, Hero and Tiger)

Cahuita was not what I was expecting. The vibe was very Carribean and Reggie and dreadlocks are very popular. There is a mix of indigenous people and people from the Carribean. The food here is really good, I especially like the spicy coconut shrimp dishes. I stayed a few days and caught up with emails, washing but not enough sun unfortunately.

(The Beach at Cahuita)

(Me and Taz the Sloth)

Two weeks ago I started at the Sloth Sanctuary. The place is much bigger than I was expecting and has a really nice setting next to a lagoon. I am staying in a house for volunteers which is pretty good but is unfortunately very close to a busy road. My day starts pretty early and if the cockerel doesn't wake me at around 3am then the Howler monkeys do at around 5am. I start work at 6am mucking out the adult sloths and preparing their breakfast. At 8am I return to the house and have an hour for breakfast myself. I do a variety of things during the rest of the day including raking leaves, preparing vegetables for the afternoon feed, helping with the tours, exercising the babies etc. I am also building a database to store information about all of the sloths. After the afternoon feed we finish about 3pm so we still have time to go into Cahuita for a bit of sunbathing and dinner. Yesterday we took canoes out on the lagoon which was fun and we paddled down to the beach.

(Home for the time being)

(Luigi)

(Brian in pyjamas because we had to shave him due to a skin infection)

Tomorrow I'm going off to see a bit of Costa Rica for a week and am then going to come back for another week or two.

Well I think that brings us up to date for now! I hope that everyone back home is well, let me know what is going on in your lives.

Nikkie

Y ahora, en español.

Here goes, my first update in Spanish.

Hola mis amigos,
Llegué a San Andres por dos semanas pasadas y me uní la escuela, EcoEscuela aprender español. En total, tengo tres semanas aquí y ahora esta es la ultima semana. Por la primera semana practicaba los tiempos del verbos presente, pretérito y futuro. Aprendía muchas palabras nuevas y mejoraba mi confianza en el idioma.
Hubo muchas estudiantes en la primera semana y hubo muchas actividades para nosotros. Visitamos ARCAS, una organización para la protección de animales. En otro dia fuimos a algunas cuevas cerca de Santa Elena. Estoy viviendo en las casa de Cándida. Ahora esta solomente Cándida y yo pero por la primera semana hubo otra estudiante, se llama Molly. Me gustaba Molly pero prefiero vivir sin otras estudiantes porque practico más español.
He probado muchos tipos de comida aquí y ayundaba hacer las empanadas y los tamalitos. Hay muchas tipos de las frutas aquí, y me gustan los mangos y los aguacates muchos.
La semana pasada fue más tranquilo porque hubo menos estudiantes. Tuve nueva maestra para mis classes y me enseño muchas nuevas palabras y un otro tiempo del verbos, el pasado imperfecto.
Este fin de semana fui a El Remate y Timal con Emily, otra estudiante. A sábado tomamos el autobus de Santa Elena a las nueve de la manaña, después tomamos otro autobus para El Ramate. Fuimos al Biotopo Cerro Cahui y caminamos por tres horas. Después fuimos a El Ramate para almuerzo y encontrar un hotel por la noche. En la mañana nos lavantamos a las cinco y tomamos el autobús a Tikal. Llegamos a las seis y media y por siete horas caminabamos mucho para ver los templos y otras ruinas. Subimos templo cuatro y cinco y tuvimos vistas fabulosos del sitio y la selva. Vimos los monos, anaña y howler.

Esta es mi ultima semana en San Andres. Mañana, voy a Santa Elena con mi maestra, Lizbet, praticar español a la terminal de autobus y al mercado. Espero comprar pescado del largo para la cena mañana.

Mi ultimo dia es el Sábado cuando llegaré para Lanquín. Visitaré las cuevas en Lanquín y Semuc Champey. Después vijaré a Panajachel y visitaré los pueblos alrededor del lago Atitlan. Quiero subir un volcán y rentar un kayak en el lago. Iré a Antigua por un dia antes Domingo, tengo un vuelo a Costa Rica.
Tengo ocho meses más en las Americas. En Costa Rica voy a trabajar para un refugio para perezosos. Encontraré mi amiga Karen y trabajaré con ella en el refugio. Nos divertiremos juntas, trabajando en la selva y visitaremos lugares en el área.
En Mayo saldré al Centro de America por cinco meses y medio en el Sur de America.
Hoy, hay un fiesta a la playa con una forgata por la luna llena y por la ultima dia de Todd, otro estudiante. Disfrutaré algunas cervesas y tiempo con los amigos nuevos.
Estoy muy contenta y me estoy divirtiendo mucho. Me gusta encontrar la gente y aprender acerca de la cúltura. El estilo de vida es muy diferente, más sencilla, y me gusta mucho. Ahora mismo, no tengo deseo de regresar a Inglaterra. Quisiera viajar para siempre. Sin embago, extraño mis amigos y espero con placer anticipado oir de ustedes.

Un abrazo,
Nikkie

Back to school in Guatemala

Hola Amigos!

So I´ve been back to school for a week or so and my confidence in speaking Spanish is improving all of the time. I am staying in a small village called San Andres which is on the edge of Lake Peten Itza.

(View of San Andres from the launch)
The village runs from the lake side and up the hillside. Pretty much everything is arriba, or in English, up the hill. You would be amazed to see some of the roads here, they are so steep they defy gravity! Some I´ve been unable to descend in the wet because I´d end up on my ass.
I am living in the home of an older lady called Cándida which is just across from the school and not far from the lakeside. My room is a concrete shell on the hillside with a door that opens up onto a balcony that overlooks the lake.

(My room)

(Views from my balcony)
Living is pretty basic here and there are few luxuries to be had. We have water from 6am till about 1pm which is pumped from the lake. Food is quite varied and I´ve had everything from pasta to beans and rice to chicken and vegetable fritters. Everything comes with tortillas and habenero chillies are in a jar on the table. Cándida has some chicks which are really cute though look quite strange as they are brightly coloured.

Another student was staying at Cándida´s house when I arrived so I had company and someone to speak some english to, well when were not trying to speak Spanish. Molly has left now so it is just the two of us. This is better for my learning because it means that I have to speak Spanish all of the time. Cándida´s house is very quite and quite modern compared to some of the others. She has an oven and all of the living quarters are covered, although some are still open to the outside. Some of the other students live in houses that are a mix of inside and outside accommodation, some are businesses (one is a butcher) and a lot have solid fuel fires.
I´ve been getting into a Spanish soap opera and really love relaxing in the hammock. Cándida has two of them in the living room.
My classes run from 8am till 12 noon and most afternoons there are activities arranged for us. I´ve been to visit some local caves, attended a talk on the local Mayan culture (all in Spanish of course), visited an animal rescue sanctuary and visited a woman´s co'operative that makes beauty products from natural, local ingredients. I even helped make soap and body lotion which I was able to buy.

(Jackie and I comparing methods of caving)

(A scarlet macaw at ARCAS, the animal rescue centre. This bird is endangered)

(Helping to make soap)

(Helping to make body lotion)

There is internet in the village but it is really slow so when I get the opportunity I visit Flores or Santa Elena. There is a boat that travels to Flores at 7.30 which is by far the best way to travel. The journey takes about 30 minutes and is so peaceful. The bus doesn´t take much longer. A small minibus comes by San Andres about every 20 minutes. You know it is coming because they sound the horn and shout 'Santa Ellaaanna' as they approach.

(The launch we take to Flores)

(Sunset from Flores)

(Cush, the boatman)
I´d say that 85% of the time I am speaking in Spanish. All lessons are conducted in Spanish, most of the people in the village only speak Spanish, as students we try to speak in Spanish most of the time so this really is an intensive experience. I suppose I shouldn´t be surprised by how tired I´ve been because it is mentally exausting.
We have had a bit of everything weather wise but mainly it is hot during the day but comfortable at night. When the rain comes, it really comes!

(Racing the rain back to San Andres, unfortunately we lost)
There is usually a nice breeze but on days like today, it is just damm hot.

There is not a lot to do here so sometimes I take a walk, or go and hang out at Gringo beach with some of the other students. We swim at the beach and have bonfires there at night.

(Bonfire on an abandoned resturant on the edge of Gringo beach)

Today I´ve been researching my next trip. Next weekend I want to go to Tikal and maybe another Mayan site if I get the opportunity. I´ve also been planning my trip to Guatemala city after school finishes and think I´ll go caving in Cobán before going into the mountains to visit Chichitenango which is famous for its market and Lake Atitlan surrounded by volcanos. Then a quick call into Antigua which is also ringed by 3 volcanos before going to Guatemala City and my flight to Costa Rica.

Well that will do for now. I´ll let you know how I get on at Tikal.

Best wishes to everyone, I hope you are all well!!

Hasta luego.
Nikkie